Évaluations - 1, GPA: 4
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Facilité d'utilisation
If the end of the rod strikes the table do not change the height adjustment of the saw. Instead, lower the front right side of the table by turning the upper nut on the suspension stud up a few turns. You should now be able to push the front right corner of the table down so the rod indicator can pass over the surface without striking it. 7. Adjust the suspension stud nuts so the top of the table on the front right side just touches the end of the antikickback rod the same as the back. Tighten the nuts by hand. 8. Release base clamp handle and swing the arm to the left until 30° is indicated on the miter scale. Tighten base clamp handle and check the height. If it is incorrect, adjust the same as before. Do not change motor height. Push the saw back and adjust the rear left side of the table. Hand tighten adjusting nuts. 9. Replace kickback to its proper position. Incidentally, you do not have to start the table adjustment with the right rear bolt. You can start with any one of the bolts, if you find it more convenient. When checking any adjustments arm must always be locked in base. ADJUSTING TABLE TOP PARALLEL WITH ARM NOTE: The upper saw guard should be approx. parallel with the table when the blade is touching the table. If it is not, adjust the table by turning the nuts on the table adjusting screws. You will notice the mounting bolts, which hold the table to the frame, are quite long. The large flange nuts, on the top and bottom of the frame, suspend the table above the frame about 1*. There is an important reason for this construction. By turning these nuts up or down we can adjust the table parallel to the arm. If the table is parallel to the arm, then any groove you cut will be the same depth from front to back. A simple method of adjusting the table to be parallel with the arm is as follows: ADJUSTING BASE TO ARM Make certain the base is absolutely snug around the arm. To do this refer to fig. A1 and adjust as follows: 1. Tighten the 5/16" bolt with a wrench until base is snug around the arm and no appreciable play is noted. 2. Place the 3/8" I.D. Washer over the threaded end of the base clamp (lubricate this washer and threads with a small amount of grease). Install the base clamp in the upper hole using the 3/8" square nut in the recess of the base casting. 3. Position base clamp so that when it is locked the handle position will be upright. If it is not, loosen the clamp rod sufficiently to permit nut to come out of recess in casting, then turn the nut 1/4 or 1/2 turn while holding damp rod. Retighten base clamp. 4. Place insert into plastic knob. Push knob on clamp handle. 5. Release the base clamp by pulling it toward you, and pull out the miter locator pin. You should now be able to push the arm to the right and left and feel a slight drag. 6. If it is too hard to move, loosen the 5/16” bolt a little. Fig. A1 ADJUSTING FOR SQUARE CROSS CUT Install blade (See Page 4 for installation instructions). Now you are ready to adjust the arm to be 90° to the fence. You will notice the saw locates at 90° when the tapered pin falls into the slotted hole on the left side of the base. This is a spring loaded pin which passes through (2) holes in the post The holes are held to a close tolerance at the factory but, they must be large enough to enable the pin to be pulled out without binding. If you locate the arm at 90° or 45° you will be able to move the end of the arm to the right and left about 1/2*. This is due to the clearance of the holes in the arm. In order to locate in the same place each time, the hole clearance is taken up by pushing the arm to the right until it stops. Lock the base by pushing back on the base clamp. Make it a habit of always locating the arm at 90® orthe(2) 45° locations by approaching the position from the left, letting the pin fall in place and bear on the arm slightly to the right until it stops moving, and you always have accurate cuts. As of now this does not mean the arm is 90° to the fence. Check it as follows: 1. Put the fence in its normal position, with the blade in front of it and about 1/32" above the table. 2. Place a carpenter’s square against the fence on the left side of the blade and against the blade itself, not the guard. Raise the lower guard out of the way. 3. Hold the square with your left hand and pull the saw forward (Fig. A3). If the arm is 90° the blade will stay against the square as you pull it out. If the arm is too far to the right, the blade will moveaway from the square. If it is too far to the left, it will push the square to the left. In either case correction is easy. 4. Since the nuts which hold the table to the frame are not tight, you can shift the entire table in relation to the arm by tapping the table corners with your hand or lightly with a hammer (Fig. A4). 5. When table is located so the' fence is 90° to the arm, tighten the adjusting nuts on the suspension studs carefully so as not to change the adjustment you...
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